Jeffrey Cohen, CMS, Wine Specialist

Happy New Year!

In this edition of Taste, I wanted to introduce to you a great new wine that was brought on at the end of the year. In November, I had the great opportunity to taste wines from a very boutique portfolio called ¿Por Que No?. We tasted through his wine bag and there were a few that really stood out. I found this one wine to soar above the others. It also happens to be made from a grape that I had never heard of. I’ll get to that in a moment. The vintner of the wine is Baldovar 923 and the wine is Cañada Paris. The grape used is Merseguera.


Merseguera is a little-known white wine grape variety grown along the southeastern coast of Spain. Plantings are relatively few, and centered on the vineyards of Valencia, Alicante and Jumilla.

Merseguera is rarely used to make single-variety wines, as it lacks the varietal character and is best used in blends. The simple fact is that Merseguera is valued for its viticultural qualities rather than its enological qualities; the wines may be bland and lacking in acidity but the variety is very tolerant of warm, dry climates. It is able to grow efficiently in poor soils and still produce substantial yields. There are, of course, a few exceptions to this, and I’m happy to say WE HAVE IT AT THE CLUB!

The 2019 is a beautifully expressive wine that showcases the unique terroir of the Valencia Mountains. On the nose, it presents a delightful bouquet of white flowers, green apple and citrus zest, accompanied by subtle hints of almond and fresh herbs. As you take your first sip, the wine’s vibrant acidity and complex minerality come to the forefront, revealing layers of stone fruit, grapefruit and wet stone. The wine’s medium body is complemented by a silky texture, which lingers on the palate alongside notes of white peach and a touch of salinity. The finish is long and refreshing, leaving a lasting impression of both elegance and balance.

Some general pairings would be white fish, such as sea bass and halibut. Fresh seafood, including oysters, clams and shrimp will also be quite harmonious. It truly is versatile and would work with Greek salads, burrata and caprese. Others might enjoy this with pescatarian dishes like sushi, or vegan meals like roasted and grilled vegetables.

I sure hope that you will come in and give this a try. I was certainly surprised at how good it was. It is Bin #491 on the wine list, or you can always just call me over to your table.

From my family to yours, have a Happy and Healthy New Year!


Jeffrey M. Cohen, CMS, is the Wine Specialist/Beverage Manager at The Clubs of Cordillera Ranch. He can be reached at jcohen@cordilleraranch.com and 210.677.9234.

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